It seems David E. Kelley brought out a magnifying glass on a sunny day and held it close and steady over the iconic American town of his quirky imagination, Rome, Wisconsin until all the nation’s cultural politics, circa 1992, caught fire. Its cast of somewhat nutty characters feel the heat and respond in believably human ways. There are no heroes, here, but there’s always a point. If you’re not laughing at each episode, your brain must be fried.